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Two generations weaving a Jamdani sareeImage: Syed07 · CC BY-SA 4.0
BENGAL · EXTRA-WEFT ARTISTRY REFINED UNDER MUGHAL PATRONAGE

Jamdani

A fine, often translucent ground animated by motifs inserted individually as the cloth is woven.

The story

Jamdani developed in Bengal, especially around Dhaka, and flourished under Mughal and Nawabi patronage. Political and economic change disrupted its historic centres, but weaving knowledge continued in Bangladesh and in West Bengal communities including Phulia, Katwa and Kalna.

How it is made

The base cloth is woven on a pit loom while supplementary weft threads are inserted by hand to build each motif. This discontinuous extra-weft method is slow and exacting, allowing patterns to appear as if suspended on the ground.

Materials and character

Traditionally associated with very fine cotton, Jamdani is now also woven with silk and zari. Motif yarn is often thicker than the ground so the design remains legible.

Why it matters

One of Bengal's most admired loom traditions, worn for cultural celebrations and valued internationally as exceptional intangible textile heritage.